Frequently Asked Questions
Cargo Worthy (CW) Containers – FAQs
A: A cargo-worthy container meets international safety and structural standards, making it suitable for shipping by rail or marine transport.
A:
CSC – Convention for Safe Containers
ISO – International Organization for Standardization
CW – ISO standard for Cargo Worthy containers
DC – Standard 8 ½’ container height
HC – High cube 9 ½’ container height
WT – Still wind and watertight but no longer cargo worthy
DD – Double barn doors at both ends
OS – Open side (whole side opens up)
SD – Barn doors installed on one side (4 barn doors for a 40’, 2 barn doors for a 20’)
1TP – (1 Trip) new container that made one cargo trip
FSC – Truckers’ fuel surcharge
A:
New (1 Trip) – Brand new container used once for cargo
IICL – Lease container in near-new condition
CW – Cargo-worthy container
WWT – Wind and water-tight, not cargo-worthy
AS – Damaged container, graded by repair cost to restore cargo-worthiness
A:
Wind and watertight
Sound door gasket seal
Meets ISO safety standards
Acceptable wear and tear (scratches, dents, rust, repairs, paint contamination)
Structurally sound floor (may be stained, worn, splintered, gouged, delaminated, or repaired)
Operational door hardware
A: Yes. CW containers may show signs of use such as surface rust, scratches, and minor dents, but must still meet ISO standards for safety and usability.
A: The floor may show wear such as stains, marks, splinters, gouges, delamination, or repairs, as long as it remains structurally sound.
A: Yes. All cargo-worthy containers must have fully functional door hardware to ensure secure transport and access.
A: Yes. All CW containers supplied by Seacans by Bomont meet ISO standards and are inspected for structural integrity and usability.
Levelling a Shipping Container – FAQs
A:
Ensure enough space for the container (e.g., 14’ x 26’ or 14’ x 46’).
Ensure enough room for the delivery truck/trailer (e.g., 50’ or 70’).
Check for hazards or obstacles that may interfere with delivery.
Confirm the site is reasonably level.
Provide proper water runoff to prevent pooling.
Decide where you want door access (tail end orientation).
A:
Clear debris, stumps, and vegetation (footprint plus 3’ perimeter recommended).
Remove topsoil where the four corners will sit.
Create four level areas of hard clay, approx. 3’ in diameter.
Remember: containers bear weight on reinforced corner posts.
A:
Most containers are delivered on tilt deck equipment.
Crane or lift truck may be used if space is tight or delivery distance is long.
You can choose “doors to cab” or “doors to tail” orientation.
Have dolly pads and shims ready for leveling.
A:
Place a dolly pad under each corner.
Use a jack-all and shims to level the nose.
Repeat for the tail.
Ensure that the container is level – doors will not operate properly if out of square.
A: Yes. If storing wheeled equipment without reverse gear, a slight slope (2”–4”) from nose to tail can help with easier unloading.
A:
Four dolly pads (to spread weight and support shims)
A set of shims (to adjust corner height)
A jack-all or crane (to lift the container during leveling)
Opening / Closing Container Doors – FAQs
A:
Marine containers have two overlapping steel barn doors on one end.
Each door swings on four hinge pins attached to the corner posts.
Doors are secured with two lock rod/latch assemblies per door.
Some storage-specific containers may have one latch with a longer handle for easier use
A:
Open the right-hand door first (it overlaps the left).
Disengage the latches sequentially.
Lift, pull, and twist both latches simultaneously.
Pull the door open when the latch handles are perpendicular to the door.
A:
Close the left-hand door first (it is overlapped by the right).
Push the door closed with latches held perpendicular to the door.
As the lock rods engage the keepers, twist and push the latches closed.
Ensure both latches are twisted closed at the same time.
TIP: Look up to confirm the top keepers are engaged.
You may need to push with your knee to compress the gasket.
Lower the latches over their retainers once fully closed.
A:
Container is not level (most common issue).
Stiff hinge pins due to lack of lubrication, freezing, or dirt.
Twisted lock rods from improper keeper engagement.
Build-up on lock rod keepers.
Stiff door gaskets from age, dryness, ice, or damage.
Frame or hinge pin misalignment
A:
Level the container first.
Use penetrating oil, grease, or heat to loosen stiff hinge pins.
Work the door back and forth to free up movement.
TIP: For long-term hinge relief, drill the hinge pin castings and install grease fittings.
Use an angle grinder to remove build-up on keepers.
Replace any broken or damaged parts.
Condensation in Seacans – FAQs
A: Condensation may be a concern depending on your location, time of year, and whether you're storing or shipping moisture-sensitive goods or using Seacans in construction.
A: Yes. Standard Seacans include plastic vents (2 ⅝” x 8 1/16”)—typically 4 vents on a 20’ container and 8 vents on a 40’. These are usually sufficient for most cargo and transit durations.
A: When the steel walls of the container get cold, moisture from the humid interior can condense on the surfaces, especially in cold or humid conditions with poor air circulation.
A:
Use desiccant products to absorb moisture.
Install additional steel vents to improve air circulation.
Consider dehumidifiers or HRV air intakes for sensitive goods.
A: You should consider using:
dehumidifiers
HRV air intakes
spray foam insulation applied directly to the steel skin
These help prevent mould and moisture damage.
A:
Always apply spray foam insulation directly to the steel skin to prevent condensation and mould.
Use breathable interior finishes.
Avoid creating a vapour barrier inside the container, as it can trap moisture and lead to mould between the barrier and the steel skin.
Flatdeck Delivery – FAQs
A: Container deliveries are generally performed using tilt deck equipment, which grounds the empty container for you.
A: Flat decks (especially step-deck or live-roll) are easier to unload than chassis because containers can slide freely. You can unload using either a crane or smaller equipment.
A:
Lift the container via the top corner castings.
Let the truck drive out from under the container.
A:
Position a machine on both sides of one end of the container.
Pick up the container and drive the truck forward.
Place that end of the container on the ground.
Reposition to the other end and repeat the process.
A: Containers can hang up on the twist locks if the lift isn’t perfectly straight and level, making unloading more difficult.
A:
Pick up one end just enough to clear the twist locks, then set it down temporarily on blocking.
Reposition to pick up the other end and repeat.
Use a crane or two large machines to lift the entire container.
Once the container is fully clear, drive the truck out from under it.
Burying a Seacan – FAQs
A: The ideal method involves using an engineered specification with reinforcing installed by a licensed steel fabricator. However, more affordable DIY options are also possible.
A: Seacans are built to carry heavy loads on their corner posts and castings, but their walls and roof need reinforcement to handle lateral and vertical forces when buried.
A: A cost-effective method is to use Gabion baskets (steel wire baskets filled with rocks) around the exterior walls to spread lateral forces before backfilling.
A: The roof must be reinforced to spread weight to the outside walls, especially if the container is buried deep or will carry heavy loads above.
A: The container should be placed on dolly pads or foundation pads under the corner castings to bear the load, ensure leveling, and promote air circulation under the floor to prevent rot.
A: Seacans are constructed from Corcan steel, which is salt and rust resistant. Dry containers have wooden floors over steel I-beams spaced 12” apart, designed to support freight loads of 30+ tons.
A:
Prep the exterior to resist rust.
Use flexible, long-lasting membranes or spray coatings.
Optionally, apply electricity to the steel (a method from the oil patch) to prevent rust—this complements but does not replace damp-proofing.
A:
Avoid placing the container in areas with standing water.
Install sump pumps and weeping tile to remove water from underneath.
Use landscaping and elevation to channel water away.
A:
Plan for subterranean moisture.
Use spray insulation or vapour barrier coatings.
Consider electrifying the walls for rust prevention.
Install forced ventilation to bring outside air in and passive exhaust vents to remove moisture.
Constructing a Dolly Pad – FAQs
A: You’ll need 2” x 6” nominal pressure-treated lumber. Each dolly pad requires 9 pieces of 16½” stock.
A:
Cut the lumber into 16½” pieces.
Arrange the pieces in three perpendicular layers.
Nail and glue the layers together to form a solid pad.
A: Shims are used to level the corners of your container. They are placed on top of the dolly pads to adjust height and ensure stability.
A:
Use the same 2” x 6” pressure-treated lumber.
Cut enough 16½” pieces to shim all four corners.
Place the shims perpendicular to the top layer of the dolly pad boards.
